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Review: Wonder Bread Whole-Grain White

Posted on Mar 2nd 2011 2:00PM by Keri Glassman

Wonder

I am not sure which brings back fonder memories: the smell of Wonder bread (I grew up near a factory where they churned out this refined goodness by the truck load) or the bread getting stuck on the roof of my mouth while eating a bologna sandwich.

The familiar taste and look of Wonder bread is here again, with an apparent dose of health this time. Wonder bread's whole-grain white bread has upped its ante and, as the label states, is a good source of fiber and calcium, with less sodium than regular white bread and 8 grams of whole grains. Is it possible to have the same amazing benefits of true whole-grain bread but still maintain that old-world white look and feel? Or is this new product simply Too Good to Be Food? Let's see.
What's in It:
Wheat flour, water, whole-wheat flour, yeast, brown rice flour, high-fructose corn syrup or sugar, wheat gluten, soy fiber, calcium sulfate. Contains 2 percent or less of: soybean oil, honey, salt, barley malt, datem, vinegar, mono- and diglycerides, calcium propionate, sodium stearoyl lactylate, monocalcium phosphate, yeast nutrients (ammonium chloride, ammonium sulfate), ethoxylated mono- and diglycerides, enzymes, yeast extract, wheat starch, azodicarbonamide, B vitamins [thiamine mononitrate (B1), riboflavin (B2), niacin, pyridoxine hydrochloride (B6), folic acid, vitamin B12], vitamin E acetate, zinc oxide, soy lecithin, ferrous sulfate (iron), calcium dioxide, soy flour, whey, vitamin D3.
First let's talk flour. Wheat flour, whole-wheat flour and brown rice flour are all used in the product and listed in the top five ingredients. The difference in them lies in the milling process: Whole-grain flour (which includes brown rice) maintains the entire wheat kernel including the fiberous bran layer and nutritionally dense germ. Wheat flour contains only the endosperm, the part of the kernel with the least nutritional value. The bran and germ have been stripped during processing. Let me point out, in case you didn't go back to read the label, that the first ingredient is wheat flour! The one thing these guys all have in common is that they all rely on the fourth ingredient, yeast, to successfully rise into bread.
Bread products often contain ingredients to add sweet flavor. Wonder uses high-fructose corn syrup or glucose. I am not from the "high-fructose corn syrup is just like any other sugar" camp. It is refined and has been shown to cause more harm than other forms of sweetener.
Wheat gluten is derived from the wheat kernel (just like our flour friends from up top) and provides the structure and elasticity of bread.

Soy fiber is added to increase the fiber content. Sounds like a good thing, but unfortunately, it doesn't come without controversy. While whole soy (for example, edamame) has many health benefits when consumed in moderation, there is research as to the potential dangers associated with the process of creating products such as soy fiber and soy protein isolate. Processed soy, thumbs down!

Calcium sulfate is a safe preservative to prevent the growth of mold and also ups the calcium content. No complaints here.

Next up, a long list of ingredients that are added in small quantities. Honey, salt, vinegar and barley malt are added for flavor, preservation and texture. The first is soybean oil that helps create a tender bread.

Okay, now here is where you either put the product back on the shelf if you are reading the label or your eyes glaze over and throw it in your cart. These words look too hard to pronounce to be food. Sodium stearoyl lactylate, datem, calcium propionate and monocalcium phosphate are all safe additives and commonly used in bread production for their emulsifying and preservation powers. Great news here! These additives help to maintain just the right environment to facilitate the many and rather fragile chemical reactions that occur in bread formation.

Similarly, yeast nutrients (ammonium chloride, ammonium sulfate) are necessary to feed the yeast and kick-start the fermentation process. Yeast enzymes and yeast extract help speed up the fermentation process and improve the final bread product.

Azodicarbonamide -- don't try saying this one with a mouth full of bread -- is a controversial food additive that has been approved for use in the U.S. but has been banned in other countries due to potential carcinogenic effects. Need I say more? Bread certainly doesn't need this to be packaged and put on shelves.

The last group of ingredients are mostly vitamins and minerals added to boost nutrient content: B vitamins [thiamine mononitrate (B1), riboflavin (B2), niacin, pyridoxine hydrochloride (B6), folic acid, vitamin B12], vitamin E acetate, zinc oxide, ferrous sulfate (iron), calcium dioxide, vitamins D and E, zinc, iron and calcium.

Finally, soy lecithin, soy flour and whey are included for emulsification, increased protein content and texture. Since we discussed soy already, I'll let you decide here.

Bottom Line:
While whole-grain white Wonder bread is a new take on an old classic, this is a time where I say out with the old and out with the new. I applaud Wonder for trying to improve the traditional white, and the nutrition facts are impressive with two slices being equal to a glass of milk and containing 3 grams of fiber. However, I still would not like to see this in your bread box. My recommendation to parents is this: Begin with whole-wheat bread! If you start your kids off on it they won't miss the white. If you already have little white bread eaters (and it's OK, all of our kids have been introduced to a few things we 'd prefer they never sunk teeth into), go slow. Introduce whole-wheat bread in your home without forcing them to make the switch. Make sure you are eating it yourself. Go half whole-wheat (on the bottom of the sandwich) and half white. Keep introducing it and making it an option. Most people do grow to like whole wheat even if they grew up with white. You and your kids will reap the whole-grain benefits while steering clear of the long list of added preservatives and ingredients. Now, go enjoy a healthy whole-wheat PB sandwich with a glass of skim milk!

Nutrition Info:
[2 slices]
Calories: 140
Fat: 2 g
Sat Fat: 0.5 g
Trans Fat: 0 g
Polyunsaturated Fat: 1 g
Monounsaturated Fat: 0 g
Cholesterol: 0 mg
Sodium: 200 mg
Total Carbohydrate: 25 g
Fiber: 3 g
Sugar: 5 g
Protein: 6 g


Nationally recognized nutrition expert and published author of "The O2 Diet," Keri Glassman is the founder and president of Keri Glassman, Nutritious Life, a nutrition practice based in New York City. For years, Keri has been a leader in advancing a "whole person" approach to health and wellness. She has dedicated her career to creating services and promoting education through her Nutritious Life brand. You can be friends with Keri on Facebook or follow her on Twitter.

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